We have a couple of days' recovery time in Khabarovsk, a chance to explore this rather attractive city, only ruined by the enormous oil refinery which someone thought it sensible to plonk close to the town centre. Highlights include the river side orthodox cathedral and the wide tree-lined boulevard which forms the main street. A few of the obligatory tram journeys provide the opportunity to get out into the suburbs, and observe the enormous scale of the place (which apparently holds the distinction of being the coldest city in the world with a population over 500k). And it's certainly cold, with breathtaking windchill blowing in from the north.
The final leg of the trans-siberian railway is on an overnight train to Vladivostok. We have attempted to experience the full range of train service provision during the course of the excursion, and this last train is, in fact, a slow service from Sovetskaya Gavan to Vladivostok, stopping at no less than 33 stations, and resulting in a somewhat disturbed night's sleep.
The huge naval and commercial port of Vladivostok feels quite western and touristy in comparison with other cities on our visit. It is built on hills, islands and peninsulas, connected with modern bridges (and featuring an ancient funicular to the top of town). On Wednesday morning we walk down to the western coastline to watch the locals walking out onto the frozen sea and drilling holes in the ice to access the hidden fish stocks.
Our brief visit to Vladivostok marks the end of the main part of the trip, but we have the added bonus of a visit to Korea coming up, and our two and a half weeks in Russia ends on the express train to Vladivostok airport. Final traveller's hint: don't be tempted to pay someone to wrap your luggage beautifully in protective clingfilm - you will only have to take it off again...
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